Here is the track system in place.

Later that day I looked on ebay to see if I could get something like this.  I was able to buy the exact same model used for about $130.  It's a great deal considering the cost about $700 new.  When I got it in the mail I realized it was pretty heavy and I needed to mount it somehow to the ceiling.  To increase maneuverability I wanted to roll from side to side on a track system.  I went to the hardware store to see what they had available.  The best thing I could find was a roller track system used for closet doors.  You can get each track for about $8 so it is an inexpensive project if you have some scrap wood lying around.  If you're not the kind to keep scrap lumber in your shop, then you can get the materials I used here from the hardware store for about $15.  It requires two 2 by 4s and a bit of plywood for the end plates.

The tracks are meant for closet doors which slide open and closed.  They can be found at the hardware store and they're really cheap at $8 a track.  The ones I used are about 47 inches long but you can get longer ones if you need that.  They come with all the hardware needed to attach to a stud at many points so it's very sturdy.  They also come with the rollers which you can use to attach to the slide plate like I did.  The only extra screws you'll need for this system is what you choose for attaching it to the ceiling studs.

To attach it to the ceiling you'll need to first find your ceiling studs.  Once those are located mark off the points on your track where you need to attach it.  I drilled a hole big enough for the screw head to fit into and slightly into the wood under the track so it was out of the way of any rollers.  I chose 3 inch long screws to make sure I got past the sheet rock on the ceiling and deep into the ceiling studs.

Just make sure your tracks are exactly the same distance apart at each end or the slide plate will get stuck at some point along the track.

The next item you'll need is the slide plate.  Make sure you know exactly how far apart your tracks are spaced.  If the tracks are farther apart on one end compared to the other end then your slide plate won't slide down the entire span.  It will likely get stuck at some point. 

The slide plate should be larger than the width of the tracks.  Slide support beams are attached so that the rollers are in the right place to fit into the tracks.  I suggest attaching the rollers to the slide supports first then attaching the slide supports to the slide plate.  The roller hardware comes included with the tracks so you won't have to buy them separately.  Just attach them toward the ends of the slide plate supports.

To make sure the slide plate doesn't fall off the end of the tracks you'll need to put end plates on each end of the track.  I used a piece of 1/2 inch plywood with a width equal to the distance from one edge of the 2x4 to the other.  Once you get them cut to shape, put the slide plate on the tracks and hold the end plates in place.  Make a mark just above where the slide plate would hit.  This allows all the pressure from impact to hit at a higher point where the slide supports are.  It will make the end plates a bit more sturdy. 

Once all that is put together you're free to put whatever you want onto slide track.  In my case it was a lighting system, but this would be useful for any thing that needs to slide from side to side.  This light was pretty heavy at about 50 lbs.  It has a lot of solid metal parts to it.  In the current configuration this track will hold about 100 lbs according to specs.  Each track has two slides for rollers though, so you could safely use 200 lbs if you used all four tracks.

After you decide what you want on your slide plate, just put it in place on the roller tracks then attach the 2nd end plate.  I think it would look better if I painted this thing white, but I was more interested in getting it up in place and making sure the idea worked.  Maybe I'll paint it later. 

After I got the arm up and working I added some LED bar lights from IKEA.  I made a custom metal plate that would fit over the front of the light to hold the LED bar lights.  I then used some good double-sided foam tape to adhere the bar lights to the plate.  Here you can see the light in three modes; off, on and brighter than the sun.  All the additional LED light components I just strapped to the arm just above the light.  This was a good place for the switch.  I did have to cut about 2 feet of cable off between the switch and the power supply.  It's easy work if you open up the power supply and re-solder the connection (unplug it first).  With the added LED lights now I can use the arm light to do simple stuff like read a book.  This makes a great office/lab light which is highly adaptive to any situation.